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Feature

From The Good Food Guide archives: Remembering Michel Bourdin 1942-2023

Michel Bourdin, who has sadly died at the age of 80, arrived at The Connaught in 1975 and spent 26 years in charge of the kitchens. He did a remarkable job reworking classic principles and maintaining a grandeur in the cuisine to match the hotel’s Edwardian splendour. Here you could eat the spectacular chartreuse de gibiers à l’ancienne made in the old manner, as well as steak and kidney pie and perhaps the best bread and butter pudding in London. A rigidly enforced dress code occasionally made the headlines, too. An ‘exceptional’ restaurant in its day.

GFG archive

Through the archives: Angela Hartnett at Murano

When, in 2002, Gordon Ramsay put one of his star protégés in charge of the Connaught the shock expressed by the old guard at an institution and formerly male bastion being rejuvenated by a female chef made headlines. In 2008, Angela Hartnett went on to open Murano, originally with Gordon Ramsay Holdings. Tucked discreetly in among the converted townhouse offices of Mayfair, Angela Hartnett’s Murano has been a major-league dining establishment for 14 years.

Feature

Trolley service: 12 restaurants with tableside theatre

‘If I had a restaurant that was 80% bigger, I’d have trolleys for everything,’ says Victor Garvey, executive chef at Sola in Soho. ‘A flambé trolley for sure – you can do your duck or lobster à la presse, you can do your crêpes Suzette. Trolleys are about tableside theatre. They add something to a restaurant that you can’t get any other way. And they’re fun.’

Feature

We’ll always have Paris

Eating well away from home takes a little bit of work - no one knows that more than I do. So, on booking a few days in Paris for the once-in-a lifetime Mark Rothko exhibition at the Foundation Louis Vuitton, my main worry was which restaurants to book – I hadn’t been to Paris for 10 years. But I knew what I wanted, a mix of classic institution and forward-thinking contemporary rather than haute cuisine.

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